When it comes to hair colouring (and keeping the right tone) blondes and brunettes share the same discolouration woes – the fate of brassy; hot yellow or copper under tones in a matter of weeks. How is this possible? And what can be done to avoid losing that nourished silky hue of freshly coloured locks?
FIRSTLY, WHAT IS BRASSINESS?
Brassiness refers to the unwanted warm, yellow or orange tones that appear in coloured hair. Generally, for anyone who has lightened or added highlights or even dyed their hair to platinum blonde, may suffer the fate of this unwanted look slinking into their locks. Unfortunately, it tends to be more common in dark hair. Brunettes will see a deep orange discolouration, similar to copper, whilst platinum blondes will have more warm yellow tones.
HOW DOES IT OCCUR?
A shift from dark hair to blonde requires a necessary bleaching process, a procedure known as oxidation whereby melanin, a dark brown/black pigment, becomes diluted. Following this, hair colour (artificial pigment) is applied. If all the natural underlying pigmentation during the lifting or bleaching has not been fully removed; then brassiness will most likely occur, revealing these unwanted warm tones.
WHY USE A TONER?
Toning is to hair what garnish is to a dish. Unlike bleaching or colouring, hair toners are essentially an additional hair colour that is applied immediately following the lifting or bleaching process. These toners neutralise and assist in removing any remaining warmth. It gently modifies hair to deliver and maintain the right shade of yellow or brown for blondes and brunettes.
For instance, for every different hue that falls under the broad ‘blonde’ umbrella, there is a complementary tone (icy, ash, neutral, golden, mushroom). Gradually after a number of weeks or numerous washes, the toner fades exposing harsh warm tones. Toners are gentle and semi-permanent, and calmly alter undertone. They are unlike permanent tints or bleach that is absorbed into the hair follicles and remain until hair grows out or is cut.
WHEN IS TONER ESSENTIAL?
Block any blurred judgement! When brassiness is visible, it’s immediately time for hair toner. Bear in mind, darker hair is more susceptible to getting a brassy tone over time than someone who’s blonde and wants to go lighter. At this point the cool molecules (blue) in hair dye have worn away, leaving just warm tones on display. Unfortunately, the first pigment to be broken down is the blue colour molecule which occurs with every wash.
Fortunately, there are several options when dealing with brassy hair, in terms of both preventing and fixing, after it happens.
1.WASH YOUR HAIR WITH A PURPLE SHAMPOO TO NEUTRALISE WARM TONES
To combat brassiness in brunette and blonde hair, a toning shampoo regime is essential for counteracting unwanted warmth and maintaining a cool, vibrant shade. For blondes, the best home remedy is bombshell blonde shampoo.
This pigmented colour-depositing shampoo enhances and brightens shades, including white platinum’s, golden highlights and beige blondes.
2.USE A PURPLE CONDITIONER TO REPLENISH HAIR ELASTICITY
A blonde conditioner is vital to keeping your hair hydrated, protected and free of unwanted brassy tones. Bombshell blonde conditioner is formulated to retain and enhance the clarity of platinum blonde hair regardless of whether it’s natural or dyed. Bursting with essential oils and nutrients, this bhave conditioner nourishes and strengthens vulnerable locks while smoothing frizz and fly-a-ways for a perfect finish.
3.USE A TONING MASK
Intense Toning Masque – VIOLET is an intensive treatment designed to restore youthfulness, elasticity and lustre to icy blonde (cool-toned cast) hair. This nourishing masque will kick yellow and brassy tones to the curb while boosting shine and hydration. Be consistently astonished at how all the brass instantly evaporates, leaving only cool icy blonde hues behind. With continued use (about once a week), watch hair resume the same colour and lustre to the day it was done by your stylist. It’s like a magic eraser for brass.
Intense Toning Masque – SLATE has been tailored to suit the needs of colour treated hair with a silver-grey tone or mushroom blonde with ash undertones. Formulated with slate pigments to neutralise unwanted brassy and yellow tones, the hydrating masque strengthens and protects the hair. Enjoy a surprisingly glossy look and luscious feel with every use.
Hair is going to fade, become dull and brassy, so do some home maintenance, keep it shiny, vibrant and relish those bouncy layers back!
Let’s recap on the cure:
Step 1: Shampoo:bombshell blondeshampoo
Step 2: Condition:bombshell blondeconditioner
Step 3: Masque:intense toning masque - VIOLET or intense toning masque – SLATE